Heading to Stanage? Stanage is a beautiful climbing area and iconic for so many reasons. We hope you enjoy visiting this world-class crag, but give it the respect it deserves and do your bit to look after it while you’re here.
Location & Style
Stanage has loads of climbing options, from trad to bouldering. The rock type is gritstone, so get ready for tiny footholds, if any, slap-worthy slopers and some pretty unique moves. This rock type is very conditions dependent, so make the most out of those cool days to maximize friction.
Restrictions & Dogs
Ring ouzel restrictions are in place during the spring/early summer – these change frequently as the birds have multiple broods and any climbing restrictions will be signed on site. Also, if you’re bringing a furry companion along, keep it on lead, just to avoid disturbing the natural wildlife.
Stanage is one of the most popular bouldering and trad venues in the UK. There are three car parks, but space is limited and they can quickly fill up on busy weekends so arrive early to bag a space. If it’s full, don’t ditch your vehicle on a verge, damage the environment and block access for emergency vehicles. Always have a back-up plan and go to a different crag if the car parks are full.
Use a bouldering mat to help slow ground erosion and to protect your fall. Small gritstone holds are fragile when wet or damp, not to mention harder to climb, so look after the rock and avoid bouldering when the rock isn’t dry.
Due to the high friction, you can use less chalk than normal and when it comes to brushing only do it gently and with soft brushes. Don’t forget to clean off any chalk when you’ve finished on a problem. Big white holds might look fine to climbers but to other visitors they really stand out in the landscape.
Avoid using Tick Marks
Avoid using tick marks. they can spoil the experience for other climbers.
When Nature Calls
Correct toilet conduct is becoming an increasing issue around climbing areas. There are toilets near the plantation car park. So if you need a number 2, do it there rather than squatting at the crag..
Crashing in your van or pitching up is not allowed at Stanage and you can risk damaging the access agreements between climbers, land managers and locals. Be respectful and help the local economy by staying at a campsite like the fantastic North Lees campsite, just below the crag instead.
No fires or BBQs! These can easily result in wildfires across the moorland.
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