Lead Climbing 2018 - Physical Fitness, Efficiency and Avoiding Mistakes
Among the winners of a climbing world cup, there are no obvious differences regarding physical abilities. Winning is about Efficiency an Avoiding Mistakes as we shall see...
We distinguish 2 different strategies for resting - Block vs Intermittent resting. More experienced and successful climbers display more flexibility in their strategy. If good rests are available, „milking“ them (within the time constraints) wins!
Successful competitors distinguish themselves with shorter hold exploration and contact time, less jerk, a more continuous movement, less chaotic force / time graphs and ultimately a better smoothness factor.
Not every climbing move can be planned. High Ambiguity tolerance allows successful climbers to view unexpected or ambiguous stimuli not as a threat, but in a neutral and open way.
Moves in these routes are not limit for the shown competitors. Mistakes are often because of the deteriorating quality of decisions made by the climber after a long session of decision making. One more reason to climb as fluently as possible!
Watch Climbing Technique of the 21st Century here: https://vimeo.com/ondemand/climbingtechnique