Pirmin Bertle bouldert Brigante Onesto (8B) in La Caprera

“An honest thief is one my ideals” is a citation from Garibaldi, the uniter of Italy, who bought the island of Caprera in the 19th century and the namesake of my hardest FA of three weeks in this crazy tafoni granite world. A place, where actually “stealing” new hard lines from the great potential can’t be the first option, but beauty has to be the idol you follow into the caves and domes and endless fields of boulders.

In addition the rock on the mainland with its big sharp crystals, few (or very good) holds and in overhangs big brushing potential isn’t the best rock to climb hard on and the only place, that we could figure out, where the granite is more solid and finer was the archipelago de la Maddalena and especially the island of Caprera. But for this you will have to watch the LP version of the video…